With around 26km to Santiago and quite a bit of climbing, we woke at 6:30am for our final day. After the soaking the night before, Padron was wet but thankfully it wasn’t raining.
The Way wound its way from Padron and we 4 Pilgrims were in good spirits knowing this would be our last big day of walking.
Just as we were hopeful of a dry day, the skies opened and it poured down.
Then, as we round a corner, the rain stopped and we could see blue sky.
Because of our early start, we didn’t see too many Pilgrims, something odd after the last few days. Then, when we stopped for breakfast and a coffee, the stream began to build.
It was a beautiful morning for walking, cool but not cold, no wind and the rain largely abated.
Satuario da Virxe da Escravitude, a lovely little church that is falling into disrepair. There is significant water damage and it smelt of mould. Very sad.
We walked on into the morning. I checked the time back in Australia. It dawned on me that it would be 2 years almost to the hour since mum had passed. I was hit by a way of emotion and shed a few tears as I walked on alone.
Mum loved nature. My earliest memories are walking in various natural places around Australia, dad with his camera, Krissy pointing things out and mum loving being with her young family. We walked everywhere. From Aunty Jan’s house to Umina Beach. Up and around the sandstone country of the central coast to Pearl Beach and Patonga. Through the Warumbungles in western NSW.
Before she passed away we asked what her wishes were. In accordance with them, we spread her ashes below the sandstone cliffs at Umina Beach. Her country.
In my mind I see her swimming out past the headland, past Lion Island and into the Pacific. No matter where I go in the world, she will be there.
I kept some of mum’s ashes and put them in a small urn. I’ve taken that urn on every trip I ever taken since she passed. Mum’s going on adventures that she couldn’t when she was with us.
Since mum passed, I see the world through her eyes too. When Claire and I were in Bali, I could see mum loving the people and the culture and the landscape. When people met me, they met mum as well.
She was with me when I walked from Santiago de Compostela to Muxia in 2023. And she’s been with us as we walked the Camino Portuguese.
As the morning wore on, we knew the long climb of the day couldn’t be too far away. Sure enough, the trail entered the oak forest and began to climb.
It was very pretty walking.
Around midday, we passed the 10km to go point, not way marked on this Camino.
Camino are big things, but they’re made up of so many small moments. It’s hard to believe that we started this journey 12 days ago, it seems like much longer given the adventures we’ve all had.
We caught up with Maureen and Steve and shared a last drink before we entered Santiago. We had another place we had to visit on the way in that was special.
Marta is Steve’s mum’s name. It was a beautiful little church, sadly locked at this time.
It was time for our last push to Santiago. we snaked through unknown streets until we entered the old city. We were almost done.
And then we entered the Praza do Obroboiro and it was all over.
There was only one more thing to do. Well two. We had a drink and a small lunch at a bar near the Pilgrim’s Office.
And then there was only one last thing.
Get our compostela.
Oh, then was just one other thing to do.
We attended the 7:30pm Pilgrim’s mass and yes, the botafumeiro was swung. What a special way to finish our Camino.
Steve had booked us into Indómito, a Michelin star restaurant, for dinner. It didn’t disappoint. The food was delicious.
So how to finish up on this adventure?
It was a tricky start with long hot days in Portugal which lead to some blisters and difficult walking. But nothing dampened our spirits and it has been a wonderful Camino. Yes, we all have sore feet and are glad we don’t have to get up and walk 25km, but I know deep down we’ll all miss the Pilgrim life, Portugal and Spain.
The people we have met along the way have all been so generous. But for such generosity, we may have gone hungry some nights. The drivers are respectful and more than happy to stop when they don’t have to in order to let a Pilgrim cross the road. The locals will give you smile and a buenos dias if you’re open and generous with your own approach. The landscapes are varied and often stunning. The food can be exceptional. We have a new found love of vermouth and always enjoyed a cold cerveza, a chilled Albariño or a tasty Rioja. What’s not to love.
Sharing this experience with Claire has been wonderful. I think she now understands why I start to rave enthusiastically whenever there is mention of the Camino.
Maureen and Steve have been great companions on the way.
We all join the great tribe that can call themselves Pilgrims.
Buen Camino
The Long Portuguese Camino 